Speedflow Fittings
MALE TUBE ADAPTER
618-06-06-BLK
2 off
411 SERIES HOSE ENDS - 45 DEG HOSE END
412-06-BLK
1 off
411 SERIES HOSE ENDS - 90 DEG HOSE END
413-06-BLK
1 off
411 SERIES HOSE ENDS - STRAIGHT HOSE END
411-06-BLK
2 off
POWER STEER, FUEL & OIL LINES (AN-6 to 1/2”-20 Inv)
703-06-BLK
2 off
Saturday, 15 October 2016
Saturday, 8 October 2016
Radiator Support
With the radiator left getting modified, I took the mounting strap/flanges home to be modified to mount the Chev's radiator support panel without using the spacer.
The spacer was a handy template, obviously having the bolt patterns for both the existing radiator mounts, as well as the radiator support panel.
Without the radiator to hold the correct bolt spacing, I bolted the support strap to the inside of the spacer and use threaded rod to hold the two sides at the correct spacing.
Then flip over the spacer and determine the width of flange required. Here it is with the flanges already cut out of galvanised steel scrap...
Holes were drilled in the flanges to match the radiator support bolt spacing, then bolted into the car...
...before lowering in the radiator mounting strap, locating it against the flanges in the final position and marking where the welds were to go...
Then it was time to break-out the welder!
Trial-fit in the Chev... all good!
Then a quick dress of the welds, prime and paint with satin black (no photos).
Now to drop the modified mounting strap off to Merrylands Radiator so it can be reunited with the modified radiator.
J
The spacer was a handy template, obviously having the bolt patterns for both the existing radiator mounts, as well as the radiator support panel.
Without the radiator to hold the correct bolt spacing, I bolted the support strap to the inside of the spacer and use threaded rod to hold the two sides at the correct spacing.
Then flip over the spacer and determine the width of flange required. Here it is with the flanges already cut out of galvanised steel scrap...
Holes were drilled in the flanges to match the radiator support bolt spacing, then bolted into the car...
...before lowering in the radiator mounting strap, locating it against the flanges in the final position and marking where the welds were to go...
Then it was time to break-out the welder!
Trial-fit in the Chev... all good!
Then a quick dress of the welds, prime and paint with satin black (no photos).
Now to drop the modified mounting strap off to Merrylands Radiator so it can be reunited with the modified radiator.
J
Wednesday, 5 October 2016
What's missing?
Stopped in at Merrylands Radiators this morning and explained the plan.
Ray was all good and will put Commodore-sized ports as far in the corners as possible, plus add the little steam vent port... all for $100! And could be finished this 'arvo!
He was just a bit unsure about the wider mounting flange so came up with the idea in the photo. Within a couple of minutes he had melted the solder holding the mounting strap and whipped it off the radiator. Now I can take the mounting strap home and weld a wider flange to it. He will remount it, all included in the $100.
He'll give the radiator a clean as well.
J
Monday, 3 October 2016
Headers + Engine Pipes
Grit blast the headers...
Quick wipe down with wax and grease remover.
Hit with this...
..."in" the outdoor spray booth...
...and baked to perfection...
Back under the car, JtC axed through the engine pipes, just forward of the trans cross member...
He then tied the exhaust to the transmission cross member ready for the transport (drive!?) to the exhaust shop...
J
Quick wipe down with wax and grease remover.
Hit with this...
..."in" the outdoor spray booth...
...and baked to perfection...
Back under the car, JtC axed through the engine pipes, just forward of the trans cross member...
He then tied the exhaust to the transmission cross member ready for the transport (drive!?) to the exhaust shop...
J
Wednesday, 28 September 2016
Radiator and Thermo Fan Clearance Dimensions
Scratch below! We are deleting the spacer (decided 02.10.2016).
From: John
Date: Wed, Sep 28, 2016 at 12:08 PM
Subject: Radiator and Thermo Fan Clearance Dimensions
To: JtC
See here...
So spacer + radiator = 122 mm + 55 mm = 177 mm.
Radiator support to water pump pulley is 245 mm.
That gives an absolute maximum radiator width of 63 mm (which only leaves 5 mm to the water pump).
Now... Summit has a nice search feature where you can search by thickness of thermo fan.
It looks like there are a few options:
The 2.000" and 2.031" versions look like the go.
The other factor to keep in mind is the hose lengths. That will be another factor in keeping/omitting the spacer.
J
Tuesday, 27 September 2016
More EFI clamps turned up
So we were able to finish off the final hose from the hard line to the engine...
...and plumb the hose from the tank/pump vent to the breather...
J
...and plumb the hose from the tank/pump vent to the breather...
J
Sunday, 18 September 2016
Fuel Hard Line
Went into this little project with a degree of apprehension... running the fuel feed hard line from the rear of the car to the front.
I experimented with a length of tube out of the VZ. OK, but a bit tough to bend and the real concern was routing over the rear axle, as well as bending up into the engine bay.
But first, some new shiny bits...
The black hose is for the power steering high pressure line from the pump to the steering box (another story). For today, we are concentrating on the coil of new 3/8" tubing and Speedflow hardline adaptors.
So the plan is...
GM female 3/8" QD on the filter output...
-> Speedflow GM 3/8" EFI adaptor to male AN-6 (716-06-06-BLK)
-> Speedflow male AN-6 to female AN-6 3/8" hardline adaptor (619-06-06-BLK)
-> Speedflow 3/8" hardline
-> Speedflow female AN-6 3/8" hardline adaptor (619-06-06-BLK)
-> Speedflow GM 3/8" EFI adaptor to male AN-6 (716-06-06-BLK)
-> fuel hose from the VZ.
Time to get JtC on the case...
Without seeing the job, there were no concerns.... easy!
Once on a creeper and under the car, the bend over the axle and the bends into the engine bay weren't looking so easy.
The decision was made to butcher the VZ fuel hose and make our own EFI rubber hose with the GM quick disconnect fittings to run from the engine, down to the chassis rail. Then it would be hard line to the axle where we would swap back to flexible hose for the axle bend.
A plan!
For a bit of laugh, JtC thought he would have a quick try bending the Speedflow hard line up and over the axle.
We shouldn't have been concerned, the new hard tubing was a lot more flexible and easier to work with than the original Holden lines.
Next minute... hard line routed over the axle, over the trans cross member, even clipped into the original Chev retaining clips...
We were able to un-spool the coil of tubing up and into the engine bay, retaining the tubing with P-clips...
A thing of beauty!
Because we butchered the VZ fuel hose to the engine, we had to recreate it with EFI rubber hose. Here it is waiting for two more EFI hose clamps (what a time to run out)...
BIG thanks to JtC for weaving his car whispering magic once again!
J
I experimented with a length of tube out of the VZ. OK, but a bit tough to bend and the real concern was routing over the rear axle, as well as bending up into the engine bay.
But first, some new shiny bits...
The black hose is for the power steering high pressure line from the pump to the steering box (another story). For today, we are concentrating on the coil of new 3/8" tubing and Speedflow hardline adaptors.
So the plan is...
GM female 3/8" QD on the filter output...
-> Speedflow GM 3/8" EFI adaptor to male AN-6 (716-06-06-BLK)
-> Speedflow male AN-6 to female AN-6 3/8" hardline adaptor (619-06-06-BLK)
-> Speedflow 3/8" hardline
-> Speedflow female AN-6 3/8" hardline adaptor (619-06-06-BLK)
-> Speedflow GM 3/8" EFI adaptor to male AN-6 (716-06-06-BLK)
-> fuel hose from the VZ.
Time to get JtC on the case...
Without seeing the job, there were no concerns.... easy!
Once on a creeper and under the car, the bend over the axle and the bends into the engine bay weren't looking so easy.
The decision was made to butcher the VZ fuel hose and make our own EFI rubber hose with the GM quick disconnect fittings to run from the engine, down to the chassis rail. Then it would be hard line to the axle where we would swap back to flexible hose for the axle bend.
A plan!
For a bit of laugh, JtC thought he would have a quick try bending the Speedflow hard line up and over the axle.
We shouldn't have been concerned, the new hard tubing was a lot more flexible and easier to work with than the original Holden lines.
Next minute... hard line routed over the axle, over the trans cross member, even clipped into the original Chev retaining clips...
We were able to un-spool the coil of tubing up and into the engine bay, retaining the tubing with P-clips...
A thing of beauty!
Because we butchered the VZ fuel hose to the engine, we had to recreate it with EFI rubber hose. Here it is waiting for two more EFI hose clamps (what a time to run out)...
BIG thanks to JtC for weaving his car whispering magic once again!
J
Saturday, 3 September 2016
Pity the Fuel!
New parts coming in thick and fast...
...time to install.
The pump outlet/return ports are female 1/4" NPT, so a couple of 3/8" barb adapter fittings will go there with Gates Barricade 3/8" EFI hose double clamped to the barbed fittings.
I have gone with a Corvette regulator/filter which takes care of regulating the fuel pressure, as well as the return to the tank, so only one 3/8" line needs to be run to the engine.
The filter/reg has a male 3/8" quick connect entry and a male 5/16" quick connect return. Feed to the filter uses a Dorman 3/8" quick connector double clamped to the feed hose.
Because I have a heap of 3/8" hose, I wanted to use that for the return as well so used a Dorman 5/16" quick release to 3/8" barb adapter.
Not sure what the result will be, clamping hose to a nylon fitting where normally nylon hose would be used... we'll see.
Anyhows, running the lines is to come. First: mounting the filter.
Waste not, want not: the VZ Commodore fuel filter bracket was resurrected...
...and pushed into service...
Plumbing to come!
Ooo... almost forgot! Fuel tank went in with the rubber-lined straps...
J
...time to install.
The pump outlet/return ports are female 1/4" NPT, so a couple of 3/8" barb adapter fittings will go there with Gates Barricade 3/8" EFI hose double clamped to the barbed fittings.
I have gone with a Corvette regulator/filter which takes care of regulating the fuel pressure, as well as the return to the tank, so only one 3/8" line needs to be run to the engine.
The filter/reg has a male 3/8" quick connect entry and a male 5/16" quick connect return. Feed to the filter uses a Dorman 3/8" quick connector double clamped to the feed hose.
Because I have a heap of 3/8" hose, I wanted to use that for the return as well so used a Dorman 5/16" quick release to 3/8" barb adapter.
Not sure what the result will be, clamping hose to a nylon fitting where normally nylon hose would be used... we'll see.
Anyhows, running the lines is to come. First: mounting the filter.
Waste not, want not: the VZ Commodore fuel filter bracket was resurrected...
...and pushed into service...
Plumbing to come!
Ooo... almost forgot! Fuel tank went in with the rubber-lined straps...
J
Saturday, 27 August 2016
More fuelling around...
During the week, more bits turned up...
More tank liner material, as well as some other bits that are for a later post.
JtC made the trip north to see what damage I had caused with the tank install.
First task: clad the tank straps with rubber liner.
As is so often the case, reproduction parts don't quite fit and for us the new straps were a smidge too wide for the strap liners.
Angle grinder time...
Voila!
Next: mounting the tank vent/roll-over ball valve.
Bit of scrap gal steel bent into a z-bracket...
Bolted in place, on the brace that the rear shocks bolt to...
Finally: fitting the in-tank fuel pump and sender...
J
More tank liner material, as well as some other bits that are for a later post.
JtC made the trip north to see what damage I had caused with the tank install.
First task: clad the tank straps with rubber liner.
As is so often the case, reproduction parts don't quite fit and for us the new straps were a smidge too wide for the strap liners.
Angle grinder time...
Voila!
Next: mounting the tank vent/roll-over ball valve.
Bit of scrap gal steel bent into a z-bracket...
Bolted in place, on the brace that the rear shocks bolt to...
Finally: fitting the in-tank fuel pump and sender...
J
Sunday, 14 August 2016
Tank Goodness
There are few options to go EFI in a '65 Impala...
1. Keep the existing fuel tank and feed the engine from an external fuel pump.
2. Keep the original tank and modify it to take an internal pump.
3. Purchase a new tank that mimics the original, but is modified to take an internal pump.
I went with option three, a new EFI-ready fuel tank from Tanks Inc, ordered through Summit....
The way to go is to order an EFI tank conversion kit which comes with pump, sender and other required bits and pieces. There was a bit of a story (see here) around what was purchsed vs. what was supplied, but Summit came good and all is sweet!
First: remove old tank.
New and the old...
The Tanks Inc product is (so far) excellent; beautiful powder coated finish, recessed area for mounting the pump/sender and baffled sump under the pick-up to reduce fuel starvation during corning/braking/accelerating.
Second: A quick tidy-up of the underside of the boot floor.
Before...
Wire wheel, wire wheel, wire wheel, prime, paint. After...
Sooo much satin black on this car!
Third: butcher the boot floor pan...
I contemplated not cutting the floor, but access to the fuel pump/sender will be sooo much easier with a hole. It is a pretty simple decision. Do. It...
Four: Fitment...
I also purchased tank lining material to avoid damaging the tank surface finish - you can see the black strips on the top of the tank - however there wasn't enough to line the straps as well so I ordered more rubber lining material and have left the tank hanging by occy straps until the rest of the rubber liner arrives.
J
1. Keep the existing fuel tank and feed the engine from an external fuel pump.
2. Keep the original tank and modify it to take an internal pump.
3. Purchase a new tank that mimics the original, but is modified to take an internal pump.
I went with option three, a new EFI-ready fuel tank from Tanks Inc, ordered through Summit....
The way to go is to order an EFI tank conversion kit which comes with pump, sender and other required bits and pieces. There was a bit of a story (see here) around what was purchsed vs. what was supplied, but Summit came good and all is sweet!
First: remove old tank.
New and the old...
The Tanks Inc product is (so far) excellent; beautiful powder coated finish, recessed area for mounting the pump/sender and baffled sump under the pick-up to reduce fuel starvation during corning/braking/accelerating.
Second: A quick tidy-up of the underside of the boot floor.
Before...
Wire wheel, wire wheel, wire wheel, prime, paint. After...
Sooo much satin black on this car!
Third: butcher the boot floor pan...
I contemplated not cutting the floor, but access to the fuel pump/sender will be sooo much easier with a hole. It is a pretty simple decision. Do. It...
Four: Fitment...
I also purchased tank lining material to avoid damaging the tank surface finish - you can see the black strips on the top of the tank - however there wasn't enough to line the straps as well so I ordered more rubber lining material and have left the tank hanging by occy straps until the rest of the rubber liner arrives.
J
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